Day 01 Delhi

Arriving late at night in Delhi, we will clear customs and immigration. Leaving the airport, we will be greeted by a representative from PL Worldways. Ltd. holding a sign with your name on it. They will transfer us to the Oberoi Maidens, the original .Oberoi hotel and the corporate headquarters for the Oberoi chain.

Day 02 Delhi
We can recover from the trip and wander a bit in Delhi, the third largest city in India, located on the west bank of the Yamuna River. There is perhaps no place in India that can compare with Delhi in the number of its monuments, dating from the time of the imperial Gupta dynasty 1600 years ago; through the Pathan style Indo-Muslim architecture from 1193-1526; and into the Mughal architecture, represented most dramatically by the Red Fort (Lal Qal'ah). Later architecture illustrates first the British period and then the search for a synthesis between the Indian and the western styles. Along the Yamuna River are memorials, set in striking flowering gardens, to India's 20th century leaders - Mahatma Gandhi, Lal Bahadur Shastri, and Jawaharlal Nehru.
This morning, we will begin your visit with a rickshaw ride down Chandni Chowk, the old market street of Delhi. As we drive, we should think of the street as a supermarket with different departments - hair ornaments, pots and pans, blankets and the like. You might want to visit the Jain Temple near Chandni Chowk, walking around barefoot with the pilgrims and the Jami Masjid, or great mosque of Old Delhi. After seeing the mosque, we drive to a very important site along the Yamuna River - the Gandhi Memorial. Simple in design, the site is visited by constant streams of Indians. Following a late lunch, we can head over to the Crafts Museum, perhaps the best place in Delhi for a taste of the arts and culture of India. After wandering the museum, we can either return to the hotel for a rest or take a stroll in the Lodi Gardens. At this time of year, the flowers are not blooming, but the walk will be lovely. The gardens are a favorite meeting place for illicit lovers and a picnic spot for families. Housed in the gardens are the tombs of the Sayid and Lodi rulers, predecessors of the Mughals. Mohammed Shah's tomb, built in 1450, is a prototype of Humayan's Tomb. In the evening, either before or after dinner, you can watch the sound and light show at the Red Fort. Overnight at the Oberoi Maidens.

Day 03 Shekhavati / Sikar / Mandawa
Today we drive out to Shekhavati. The merchants of Shekhavati, a feudatory of Jaipur until 1491, built themselves palatial and fortified havelis, chhatris to the dead, serais and inns, temples surrounding lakes and reservoirs, and employed a bevy of craftspeople to decorate their domains. The region is also the home of the Marwari community, which for more than a century has been the backbone of commercial entrepreneurship in India. Many of the Marwaris moved to Calcutta when trade rivalry with the British pushed them out of the area. They left behind a veritable open air art museum. With the help of chiteras, the fresco painters, the Marwaris transformed their houses into a luxury of paintings. Thus, Shekhavati contains a veritable feast of wall paintings: town after town, village after village, an abundance of art unmatched in the world.
Among other sites, we will stop in Sikar, the largest thikana or feudatory state under Jaipur, to see the delightful Biyani Haveli. The blue and white designs are reminiscent of Chinese porcelain. Blue was the color of the wealthy, and appears in much of the art of the area. Navalgarh, another stop, was the home to many of the famous Rajasthani merchant families. Walking the streets reveals some very quaint sights - a frescoed telephone exchange and a Shiva Temple with a multi-headed lingam. Tonight we will stay in Mandawa at the famous Castle Mandawa with its magnificent views of the town and the semi-arid plains beyond.

Day 04 Mandawa/ Fatehpur
We have a long day to explore some of the more famous towns of this area, starting at Fatehpur. Here, the Devra and Singhania Havelis are considered to be the finest artwork in the region. The two Bhartia Havelis are decorated with mirror, and, quite unexpectedly. Have entrances decorated with Japanese tiles patterned with Mt. Fuji! Churu has an 18th century fort and large painted havelis; whilst the charm of Mukundgarh, apart from the fabulous Kanoria and Ganeriwala Havelis, is the white colonnaded local handicrafts market.
Chiteras initially used only vegetable dyes in their frescoes - Kajal (lamp black) for black, safeda (lime) for white, neel (indigo) for blue, harabhata (terra verte) for green, geru (red stone) for red, Hirmich for brown, kesar (saffron) for orange, and pevri (yellow clay) for yellow ochre. Blended with limewater and mixed into plaster, the life of the colors lasted as long as the buildings themselves. The actual production of the frescoes mandated a collaboration between builder and artist, with the artist painting his designs on the still damp plaster of the builder.
At night we will return to the Castle Mandawa.

Day 05 Varanasi / Khajuraho
From Mandawa, we will drive to Bikaner and the Lalgarh Palace. Aesthetically, few palaces match Lalgarh Palace. Set in an open countryside outside of the city, the palace is a perfect fusion of Indian fantasy and western luxury. It was designed over ninety years ago for Maharaja Ganga Singh, one of the signatories of the Versailles Treaty, and a great soldier. This palace will be our home for the next two nights.

Day 06 Bikaner
Bikaner owes its existence to a son's ambition to strike out from his family and make his own kingdom. Beginning in 1468, Rao Bika used his military and political acumen to annex and consolidate what was later to become Bikaner, By 1587, the territory was secure, construction of the Junagarh Fort had begun, and Bikaner was thriving as a center of trade on the ancient silk route. Because of its remote location, even today Bikaner retains its traditional customs and lifestyle. Our day begins with a visit to the Junagarh Fort, built by one of Aqbar's generals, Raja Rai Singh, to protect the 37 palaces, temples, and pavilions within. The fort has the unique distinctions of remaining unconquered up to the present, and boasting stone carving that is among the best in the world. Balconies, painted walls, a cooling marble tank, mirror work, ivory beds, courtyards, and other touches lend an elegance, grace, and dignity to this fort that is unmatched. There is also a museum housing sculptures, seals, domestic implements and toys. We will also visit the Camel Breeding Farm and Karni Mata or Deshnoke.
Terra-cotta is an age-old craft of Rajasthan. Alwar produces paper-thin Kagzi pottery, red and clay articles with geometrics are made in Pokharan, and Bikaner is famous for its painted pottery, tinted with lac colors. We will wander the area of the market where craftsmen practice making the terra-cotta pieces as did their forefathers before them. We will spend the night at the Lalgarh Palace.

Day 07 Jaisalmer
Heading out to Jaisalmer the westernmost city in India, we will stop at Khichan, a lovely village with superb red havelis of the Oswal Jains. The great charm of this little village lies in the sand dunes and its lake full of cranes. In the winter, we can see up to 8000 cranes flocking to the lakes, attracted to the grain laid out for them by the Jain villagers. We will have a picnic lunch here. When we finally reach Jaisalmer, we will stay at the Narayan Niwas.

Day 08 Bhopal

Jaisalmer was founded in 1156 AD by Rawal Jaisul. Legend has it that Lord Krishna made a cleft in the triple peaked hill of Tricuta, brought forth a spring of water, and declared that one day his descendants would rule the area. Claiming descent from Lord Krishna, Rawal Jaisul consulted a local hermit named Eesul and established his new capital on Tricuta. Jaisalmer's strategic location on the main trade route linking India to Egypt, Arabia, Persia, Africa and the West ensured it prosperity, while its remoteness ensured its cultural heritage.

Those who wish can rise for sunrise from the chhatris or burial monuments. Then, after breakfast, we can visit the spectacular Jain temple of Jaisalmer and tour the fort. We can also take a ride into the nearby desert on local camels. The afternoon is free to wander the streets and do some shopping. Late in the day, we can drive to the Jaisalmer museum and Gadiswar Lake. There, depending on the season, we can take paddleboats into the water and watch sunset against the golden sandstone monuments. Another possibility is to watch sunset at the Samm Sand Dunes. Overnight at the Narayan Niwas.

Day 09 Chandelarao Garh
Heading southeast, we will leave Jaisalmer for Chandelarao Garh. Lying 40 kilometers from Jodhpur, Chandelarao Garh is the home of the descendants of Rao Kumpa. Rao Kumpa fought Sher Shah Suri, the Afghan ruler of Delhi, and died in the battle of Sumelgiri in 1544 AD. We will stay in the fortified home, built by his grandson, Rao Puranmal, who annexed Sirohi for the Maharaja of Jodhpur. This delightful village is the home of the Bishnoi and Raika communities, who are, by tradition, potters, blacksmiths, goldsmiths, and weavers. We can spend the evening in the village, listening to the music of local musicians as the sun sets, or watch water birds on the shores of one of three nearby lakes. We will stay overnight at Chandelarao Garh.

Day 10 Ranakpur

The morning is at leisure to explore the area. After an early lunch, we will depart for the area around Ranakpur. Our new home is another Rajasthani gem – the royal hunting retreat of Rawla Narlai. Situated amidst dramatic boulders and ancient temples at the foot of a 350 foot single granite rock, the Rawla is a 15th century home that has been carefully restored by Maharaj and Rani Swaroop Singh and their sons. Here we can either explore the village of Narlai, or climb the huge rock hills. Among the boulders are many small temples, including one where a miraculous flame has burned for centuries, giving off saffron instead of black soot. It is said that if you make a wish here in this temple, it cannot but come true. On the top of the boulder is a statue commemorating the favorite elephant of the Maharaja. There is also a Shiva temple at the top. Overnight at Rawal Narlai.

Day 11 Ranakpur / Mewar / Udaipur
This morning, we head up to the huge fort in Kumbalgarh, the second most important citadel of Mewar. (Mewar, by the way, is another name for the Rajput dynasty that ruled Udaipur.) Surrounded by thirteen mountain peaks, guarded by seven great gates and seven ramparts, strengthened by rounded bastions and immense watchtowers, this mountain fortress has witnessed many battles. Only once, however, have the occupants been defeated - by Akbar's forces. It is interesting to visit the palace and temple ruins. Lunch will be at nearby Maharani Bagh.
After lunch, we will drive down to the 15th century Jain temples of Ranakpur, one of the most important of the Jain pilgrimage sites in India. The central temple, Chaumukha, is dedicated to the Jain Tirthankara (revealer of truth), Adinath, and contains 1444 exquisitely carved marble pillars. Note that in India, feminine beauty is determined more by the fullness of the figure, narrowness of the waist, and the roundness of the hips and breasts. We should meditate on our reverence for Michaelangelo and his carvings, amidst this proliferation of extraordinary Indian marble sculpture by an unknown artist.
If our timing has been good, we will head into Udaipur via Eklingi in time for the evening aarti service. Eklingi, built originally by Maharana Bappa Rawul around 750, is the most important temple for the royal family of Udaipur and is the site of regular visits by the former royal family. History relates that Bappa Rawul grew up as a simple cowherd and was educated by a forest ascetic, Harita Rishi. Impressed by the nobility and piety of the boy, Harita Rishi appointed him the vessel of the local deity, Eklingaji, on earth. Unlike many kings then, the descendants of Bappa Rawul "have regarded themselves as transient regents representing the people before God, and not as rulers by personal right." Overnight at the Kankarwa Haveli.

Day 12 Udaipur
In contrast to Jodhpur and Delhi, Udaipur is a city of shimmering lakes, marble palaces and verdant hills. Justifiably, it has been called the "Venice of the East." Myth has it that the spirit of Udaipur gazes toward the fort of Chittor and owes its birth as a city of pleasure to the misfortunes of that battle-scarred fort.
We can soak up the pleasures of Udaipur. After washing up, we will head out to visit the City Palace, begun by Maharana Udai Singh. Of the many palaces of Rajasthan, the City Palace is one of the most beautiful in terms of artwork. The stained glass, inlay work, tiles, miniatures - everything is exquisite. Leaving the palace, we walk along past fabric stores, jewelers, painters, and shop a bit. On the path is the Jagdish Temple, built in 1651 by Maharana Jagat Singh and dedicated to Vishnu. Late in the afternoon, we will take a boat ride on the lake to photograph sunset, and visit Jagmandir Island. The Jagmandir Palace was built by Maharana Karan Singh, and has a magical history. The son of the Mughal Emperor Jehangir, Prince Khurram, had revolted against his father. Historians relate that he, his wife, and children sought refuge with the Mughal's historical enemy, the Maharana of Udaipur, Karan Singh. According to historian Brian Masters, Karan Singh, in a gesture of remarkable generosity and hospitality, housed the Prince at Jagmandir. In 1627, when the Emperor Jehangir died, Prince Khurram was proclaimed the new Emperor, Shah Jehan; and his wife, Arjumand became Mumtaz Mahal. In fact, the tributary Mughal princes came all the way to Udaipur and Jagmandir to acknowledge the succession of Shah Jehan. When the day for the Shah to depart arrived, he and Karan Singh exchanged turbans, each placing his own on the other's head. Today, Shah Jehan's turban can be seen in the museum in the Udaipur City Palace. Overnight at the Kankarwa Haveli.

Day 13 Jaipur
Today we continue visiting Udaipur. The city is famous for its miniature paintings, and we will visit a local studio and watch how the work is done. We can also visit the beautiful botanical gardens in the city or head out to a craft village on the outskirts of town. Late in the afternoon, we will transfer to the airport for a flight to Delhi on CD 492 (1955/2145). On arrival, we will be met and transferred to the Oberoi Maidens for the night.

Day 14 Delhi or Agra
Today there is a choice. Those who wish can stay in Delhi and do some last minute shopping. They can also visit the Crafts Emporium or Lodi Gardens, if they did not see them the first day of the trip.
Those who wish can drive down to Agra for the day. The most important stop is the Taj Mahal. The Taj was built on the southern side of the Yamuna River by the Mughal emperor, Shah Jehan. Distraught by the death in childbirth of his inseparable companion and wife of twenty years, Mumtaz Mahal, or "Chosen One of the Palace," Shah Jehan began the building in 1632. The building is an exact image of the Muslim Day of Judgement. The Arabic words, design, symbolism and architecture all reflect this theme. With the help of 20,000 workmen, Shah Jehan finished the mausoleum section by 1643.
Tourists from all over the world gaze in wonder at the perfection of the glistening marble of the mausoleum and visit the inner chamber, exquisitely decorated with mosaic composed of semi-precious stones. As an aside, Shah Jehan was a contemporary of Louis XIV, and Versailles and the Taj were built at approximately the same time. After exploring the Taj, we can visit some of the sites of Agra. One possibility is the massive Agra Fort. The fort was begun by Emperor Aqbar in 1565 as a military structure, and finished by his grandson, Shah Jehan, as a luxurious palace. Many of the historical events leading to the construction of the Taj occurred here. On the opposite side of the Yamuna River is the Itmad-ud daulah, or tomb of Mirza Giyas Beg, chief minister to Aqbar's son, Jehangir. Beg's daughter, Nur Jehan, or "Light of the World," was the wife of Jehangir, and built the tomb for her father. The first Moghul monument constructed entirely of marble and using pietra dura or marble inlay work, the tomb foreshadows the Taj. After studying these two magnificent structures, we travel to a factory and see just how marble carving and inlay is done. Late in the day, we can head back to Delhi. After a farewell dinner, we will transfer to the airport for the flight home.