From the Indus Valley Civilization, which flourished in India 4000 years ago, art and architecture have developed with a remarkable continuity through successive regional and religious influences and styles. With various races and religions came a variety of ethnic types and most of these have retained identity and influence and found a permanent place in the mosaic that is India.
On this trip we will take you through the Southern part of India, mostly untouched by the foreign invasions which rocked northern India. We begin in the remarkable stretch including Badami, Bidar, Gulbarga and Hampi, which illustrates pure Muslim styles. We travel to the outstanding temples of the Hoysala dynasty at Hassan; visit the Dutch architecture of Cochin; and follow the intricacies of temple architecture in our drive through Tamil Nadu, ending at the showpiece of this collection - the extraordinary rock art of Mahabalipuram. Along the journey we will visit two Schools of Architecture, a heritage village that showcases the art and architecture of the four southern states and spend time with experts in the field.
Architecture and Archeology of South India
Experience the highlights of South Indian art, culture and natural beauty on this very extensive 3 week tour. Accommodations are 5 star, heritage or best available.
Day 01 Mumbai
Arrival in Mumbai. Transfer to hotel.
Day 02 Mumbai
In the morning drive to Gateway of India to board a ferry to visit Elephanta. While you are here you will see this beautiful landmark of Mumbai which was built to welcome the Prince of Wales in 1905, and is a umique example of Indo Saracenic architecture. At Elephanta you will visit the caves carved in granite rocks. They date from 450 to 750 AD. The visit includes Mahadeva Trimurti and the Ardhanarishvara sculptures, famous iconographical representations of Lord Shiva. In the afternoon we have a guided city tour which will take you to the Mani Bhawan, the house where Gandhi stayed and started his Satyagrah movement, the Malabar Hills with its Tower Of Silence, Hanging Gardens and the Prince of Wales Museum, largest fine art museum in India.
Day 03 Mumbai / Hyderabad
Hyderabad is an important center of Islamic culture and central India's counterpart to the Mughal splendors of the northern cities. After Hotel check-in tour the old city and the Charminar, the oriental Arc de Triomphe built between 1591 and 1612, with a slender minaret and huge arches on either side. On the second floor is a beautiful mosque. Some of the other sites of note are the Mecca Masjid, the Grand Mosque, the Jama Masjid, the second mosque built in the old city at the end of the 16th century; and the Lad Nazaar area where you see some interesting buildings with wood and stone carvings. At the end of the tour you stop at the fascinating Salar Jung Museum, which houses the collection of Sir. Yusuf Ali Salar Jung, the Prime Minister to the Nizam of Hyderabad between 1899 and 1949. The ruins of Golconda Fort and the tombs of the Qutab Shahi Kings lie about 11 kms west of the city.
After lunch, we head out of the city to the impressive fort at Golconda entered thruugh gateways which have relief ornamentation of birds and animals. The Fateh Darwaza of Victory Gate made of teak, with a Hindu deity engraved is studded with rion spikes. Within the ramparts lie the mosques, temples, the 3 storeyed armory, the harem, the Hall of Public Audience and the Rani Mahal with the royal baths.
Returning to the city you will stop at the Qutb Shahi Tombs. Each tomb is made of black granite or green stone with plaster decorations of fine sculpture, inscriptions and remains of glazed decoration. The larger tombs have their own mosques.
Day 04 Hyderabad / Bidar / Gulbarga
Driving out of Hyderabad you head towards Bidar, a journey which is approximately 140 kms. This walled fort town in North Karnataka was once the capital of the Hamanis and the Barid Shahis. The fort is still intact and the palaces and tombs provide some of the finest examples of Muslim architecture in the Deccan intermingling Hindu and Islamic styles. After visiting the fort and the old town you continue to Gulbarga a distance of 115 kms arriving early evening.
After visiting the fort and old town you will lunch at a " Dhaba", a popular name for an Indian roadside café, where the food is hot and fresh cooked. This is a not to be missed culinary experience. The surroundings are rustic, but the food equivalent of fine dining in any deluxe city hotel. You continue to Gulbarga, a distance of 115 kms, arriving early evening.
Day 05 Gulbarga / Bijapur
This town was the first capital of the Bahmanis and is known in South India as the home of Saiyid Muhammad Gesu Daraz Chisti who was instrumental in spreading Islamic faith in the Deccan in the 14th Century. The most striking remains in the town are the fort, with its citadel and mosque and the tombs in its eastern quarter. The mosque covers an area of 3500 sq m and is covered by a dome over the four corner domes and 75 minor domes making it unique among Indian mosques; the tombs of the Bahmani sultans lie in two groups and the tomb of the Chisti is two storey high with a highly decorated painted dome and a mother of pearl canopy over the grave. The most striking of the tombs is Haft Gumbaz which has highly ornamented geometrical patterns.
Late afternoon, after lunch at the hotel, we drive to Bijapur and stay overnight at the Madhubani.
Day 06 Bijapur / Badami
Bijapur is distinct as it resembles a North Muslim city with its mausolea, mosques and palaces. The main landmarks are the Jama Masjid one of the finest in the Deccan with a large shallow, onion shaped dome and arcaded court. It was built by Ali Adil Shah in the 16th century, Ibrahim Rauza the 17th century palatial tomb is beautiful proportioned, its slender minarets, carved decorative panels with lotus, wheels and cross patterns and bold Arabic calligraphy bearing witness to the tolerance of Adil Shah to other religions; Gol Gumbaz the vast tomb of Mohammad Sadil Shah, buried here with his family and favourite court dancer, has been described by some as "startlingly ugly". It is the worlds second largest dome unsupported by pillars and has a wide whispering gallery.
After lunch, served in the gardens of the Madhuvan, we drive approximately 196 kms to Badami. For the next two nights you stay at Badami Court.
Day 07 Badami
You rise early as the best time to see the cave temples in the South fort, is the light of the early morning sun. Four of these were cut into the hillside in the early 6th century. The first cave is reached by climbing 40 steps has Siva as Nataraja with 18 arms seen in 81 dance poses; the second cave is on a higher level has reliefs of Varaha and Vamana. The third cave is is dedicated to Vishnu. According to a Kananda inscription which is unique to Badami it was excavated in 578 AD and has numerous sculptures including a huge reclining Vishnu; Cave 4 is the only Jain cave and possibly excavated 100 years later.
Other temples of note which you visit during the day, includes the Buddhist temple near the ancient artifical Bhuthanatha Lake; the 7th century Mallegitti Sivalaya Temple on the finest examples of the early southern style. Statues of Vishnu and Shiva decorate the outer wall while animal friezes appear along the plinth above the caves; Jabulinga Temple dating from 699 has three chapels dedicated to the trinity and has fine carvings. The North Fort temples includes mainly 7th century and gives an insight into Badami history.
Day 08 Badami / Pattadakal, Aihole / Hospet
A full day today. 170 Kms from Badami is Pattadakal on the banks of the Malaprabha River, the second capital of the Chalukyan kings between 7th and 8th century and the city where the kings were crowned. Most of the temples cluster at the food of the hill and display a succession of styles of the southern Dravida temple architecture as well as the North Indian Nagara style illustrating the regions positon at the cross road of North and South Indian traditions.
With the exception of one, all the temples are dedicated to Shiva. 18 kms from Pattadkal is Aihole, the first Chalukyan captial which includes some important late Chalukyan temples dedicated to Jain divinities. It is widely regarded as the birthplace of Indian temple architectural styles and site of the first built temples, distinct from those carved out of solid rock. Most of these temples were orginally dedicated to Vishnu, though some were later converted into Shaivite shrines.
Late evening you arrive at Hospet where you stay the night at Malligi Tourist Home.
Day 09 Hospet / Hampi / Hospet
Hampi which lies 13 kms east of Hospet, was once the seat of the great Vijayanagara Empire and the centre of Hindu rule for 200 years from its foundation in 1336. Enormously wealthy, "greater than Rome", they held a monopoly of trade in spices and cotton. This site was chosen for strategic reasons, but the craftsmen excelled in adopting an ingenious style to blend in architectural masterpieces with the barren and rocky landscapes. Most of the sites are 16th century built during the 20 year reign of Krishna Deva Raya. You will need a whole day to visit the stunning temples, palaces and market places of Hampi. Today you will have lunch at the Vaikuna Guest House, its' beautiful hilltop setting giving a panoramic view of the Tungabhadra Dam.
Day 10 Drive to Bangalore ( 325 kms) Hotel Taj West End.
Compared to other areas in Karnataka, the sites in the state capital of Bangalore are limited. Famous for being transformed by the growth of information technology, Bangalore is known as India's Silicon Valley. Among some of the places of interest is the mid 16th century Bull temple where the monolithic Nandi bull is believed to have grown in size. Nearby is one of Kempe Gowda's, the founder of the city, four towers. The Gavi Gangadharesvara Cave Temple has four monolithic pillars and an unusual figure of the Agni, the god of Fire. Tipu Sultan's palace, though not as ornate as his palace in Srirangapatnam, has a substantial amount of wood, walls and ceilings painted in brilliant colors. The Government Museum in Bangalore is believed to be the oldest in the country and has 18 galleries including Neolithic finds from the Indus Valley civilization, antique jewelry, textiles, coins and art.
Day 11 Hassan
In the morning we will be visiting Belur and Halebid temple complexes (12th-14th century). Built by the Hoysala Kings, the temples at Belur and Helebid are the cream of what remains of one of the most artistically exuberant periods of Hindu Cultural development. The wealth of sculptural details found on the exterior and interior of these temples at Halebid and Belur makes them the most outstanding example of Hoysala sculptural art. Belur, built on the banks of the Yagachi River, was the first capital of the Hoysala Empire. The temples are all clustered in a courtyard. The one of particular interest is the Chennakesava Temple dating to the early 12th century and took nearly a century to complete. It celebrates the Hoysala victory over the Cholas and is dedicated to Krishna. The winged figures of the Garuda, the winged carrier of Vishnu guards the entrance. It is unimpressive on first sight since the superstructure has been lost. However, the exquisite sculptures that cover the exterior with friezes are amazing. 650 elephants, each unique surround the base, with rows of figures and foliage. The detail of the 38 female figures, young musicians and dancers are perfect. The interior once again has superb carvings on the hand la the turned pillars and figures on the ceilings. The unique Narasimha pillar at the center of the hall is particularly fine, and at one time could be rotated. The detailed work on this temple is astounding. To the west of this temple is the Viranarayana Temple, which also has some fine sculptures and smaller shrines, and the Jain Bastis a few km away are also worth visiting.
The ancient capital of Hoysala Empire, Halebid was founded in the 11th century. It was destroyed twice by the armies of the Delhi Sultanate, first in 1311 and then in 1327, after which it was abandoned and later named Halebid which means old capital. Fortunately the temples survived. It is worth visiting the 12th century Jain Bastis or temples. Several of these temples stand in a garden enclosure and have carved ceilings. These temples are quiet without the crowds that flock the main Hoysalesvara temple. The Hoysalesvara Temple also set in lawns has two shrines both dedicated to Shiva with Nandi bull, the traditional vehicle of Shiva facing each other. The largest of these temples was started in 1121 but remained incomplete for 86 years. There are extraordinary life size statures of Hindu deities with minute details surrounding the temple, whilst the six bands of sculpture below, show the attention to detail and skill of the artisans' craft.
You will be staying at the Hoysala Resort.
Day 12 Drive Hassan to Mysore ( 170 kms. 4hrs)
Enroute we visit Shravanbelagola. Shravanabelogola is one of the oldest and most important Jain pilgrimage centers in India. The site of the huge statue of Lord Bahubali ( Gomateshvara), which at 17 meters high and carved out of a single piece of rock, is the world's tallest monolithic statue. Sravenabelagoa is a place of pilgrim for the followers of the Jain Religion. Of particular note is the life size statue of Gommateshwara rising 150 mt. above the plain. The statue was erected sometime between AD 980 and 983. The statue is nude; representing the Digambara or sky clad Jains, and captures the tranquillity typical of much of Buddhist and Jain art. The depth of the saint's meditation and withdrawal from the world is suggested by the spiraling creepers shown growing up his legs and the anthills and snakes at his feet. While the features are finely carved the overall proportions are odd, with greatly enlarged shoulders, elongated arms and shortened legs. You will be spending the night at the Hoysala Resort too.
Day 13 Mysore
After breakfast, visit Mysore Palace. This beautiful Indo-Saracenic Palace dominates the city's skyline. It was built in 1911-12 at a cost of 4.2 million rupees to replace the former palace which was burnt down. We have a guided tour of the palace. In the evening we take an excursion to Chamundi hills to visit Sri Chamundeswari Temple.
Mysore is the former capital of the princely state and is the second largest city in Karnataka after Bangalore. It is a city of royal palaces with five plus a dozen mansions. Of these, the City Palace, designed by Henry Irwin and built in 1897 is the most extravagant and interesting in terms of art. Built in the Indo-Saracenic style, seen so prevalently in Northern India, the palace is enormous with domes, arches and colonnades of carved pillars. It is one of the largest palaces in the country and has some priceless art treasures. Other areas of interest include Chamundi Hills, which has a temple dedicated to Durga celebrating her victory over the buffalo God and a giant Nandi bull.
Day 14 Mysore / Bangalore (Drive is 140kms. 4hrs.) Enroute to Bangalore, we will be visiting Srirangapatnam, the Summer Palace of Tipu Sultan. The name Srirangapatnam comes from the temple of Vishnu which predates the fort or the town. The town played a crucial part in the region since its origin in the 10th century. The great Viashnavite philosopher and reformer settled here in 1133 and the site was frequently a focal point in South India's political development. Today the area is better known for the beautiful Daria Daulat Bagh which means the "Splendor of the Sea". It was Tipu Sultan's summer palace built in 1784 with lovely gardens, and colorful frescoes of battle scenes between the French, British and Mysore armies. The interior has ornamental arches and gilded paintings on the teak walls and ceilings. Further down is the ornate white domed Gumbaz that was built in remembrance of Tipu's father, Haider Ali. The dome is covered with delicate ivory on wood inlay and has Tipu's tiger stripe emblem. Some of his swords and shields are still kept here, and the tranquil atmosphere is a perfect setting for this elegant and quiet mausoleum, in the center of which lies the tomb of Haider Ali.
Day 15 Bangalore / Cochin
An ancient harbor town, Cochin reflects the influence of the many foreign traders who visited the city. The Jewish synagogue, one of the oldest in India, is set in the heart of the area known as "Jew Town" surrounded by an aromatic spice market, and interesting shops selling antiques. The synagogue is decorated with blue ceramic Chinese tiles, each distinct in their design. The pictures on the tiles relate the tale of the romance between a wealthy mandarin. We spend time in the surrounding markets and walk to the Mattancherry Palace, which was commissioned by the Portuguese for the raja of Kochi in exchange for trading rights. The palace is two storeys high and is built in the traditional Kerala style known as nalukattu (four buildings). The palace exhibits memorabilia from the raja of Kochi' collection, but it is best known for its outstanding murals painted on the wooden walls. The royal bedroom has ceilings and walls covered with forty-five 16th century paintings illustrating the Ramayana. Later we walk in the heritage zone, which has preserved the original architecture of the city. We visit St Francis's Church and the Chinese fishing nets, which line the mouth of Cochin harbor.
Day 16 Cochin
After breakfast we drive to Kochi, enroute visiting the construction of DHOW, a typical Kerala hand made boat. Kerala, apart from being very green, is also very colorful and the traditional culture remains intact here. The Lorries in the stat are all painted in bright colors. We will travel along the coast line and cross various water streams running into the ocean and the back waters coming into the land. The drive is a very eventful one.
A visit to Kerala is incomplete without a visit to the backwaters. A series of canals, which thread their way through the state to the sea, it allows you a glimpse of life in Kerala impossible to get from road transport. Along the way you will pass rice fields, tiny villages, boats transporting children to school and farmers transporting their produce to the market, and women completing household tasks such as laundry and washing utensils. You will disembark from the boat to wander in the villages and talk to the people. At night the boat will anchor mid stream, and your meals will be specially prepared by the crew from freshly bought produce.
Evening you are free to relax and enjoy Kerala as you would like to. Cochin / Alleppy-Riceboat (Drive 147kms. 3hrs)
We drive through the countryside to a jetty near Kottayam to board the riceboat. Overnight on the traditional Kerala rice boat.
Alleppy / Madurai (Drive 160kms. 4hrs)
Most cities in India have a legend surrounding its origins. Madurai is no exception, and the story tells how Shiva looked down on this city and drops of nectar fell from his locks and so it was named Madurai, or city of nectar. Ancient Madurai was a center of Tamil culture, famous for its writers and poets and the history goes back to the 6th century BC when it traded with Greece and Rome. The Nayakas laid out the old town in the pattern of a lotus with narrow streets surrounding the Minakshi Temple at the center.
The Minakshi Temple is an outstanding structure dedicated to Minakshi the "fish eyed goddess" and the consort of Shiva who also has a temple dedicated to him. Since Minakshi is the presiding deity, the daily ceremonies are first performed at her shrine. This is a living temple and each shrine has priests performing rituals in front of them and there is also a temple elephant. The temple is entered through massive gopurams or gateways profusely covered in very colorful carvings, which are believed to be an encyclopaedia of Indian dance poses. The mandapas surrounding the main shrine have exquisitely carved pillars and panels. Of note is the panel showing the marriage between Shiva and Minakshi and another showing Shiva in this 24 forms.
A special visit back to the temple in the evening, after an early dinner, is a must. This time you will be taken to the temple complex on cycle rickshaws to witness the evening spiritual ceremony in which Lord Shiva is in a palanquin accompanied by musicians, temple singers and priests to the temple of his consort Parvati to spend the night. He is brought to his temple in the morning.
Day 17 Madurai / Thanjavur / Trichy
In the morning we depart from Thanjavur. In the afternoon we visit the famous Brihadeshwara temple constructed by the Chola King in the 10th century AD. The dome on top of the 63 meter high temple is a single piece of granite weighing an estimated 81 tons and the huge Nandi is carved out of a single piece of rock. We continue our visit to the Museum which has one of the finest Bronze collections. We continue to Trichy where we walk through the market place to the temple on the rocks.
Day 18 Trichy / Pondicherry
After a leisurely breakfast, we drive to Pondicherry. Here we will see the strong French influence in the architecture and the life style of the people. In the evening if time permits, we visit the Aurobindo Ashram, and Auroville, The International Township for Harmony.
Day 19 Pondicherry / Kanchipuram / Mahabalipuram
After breakfast, we drive to Kanchipuram the erstwhile capital of the Pallava and Chola rulers. These two powerful ruling dynasties gave the city its numerous temples and water tanks. The temple city is one of the 7 holy cities of India and has over 150 active temples dedicated to various gods and godesses.
The various temples you will visit are Kailashnatha, Vaikunthaperumal, Vishnu Temple, Shiva Natraja, Vardaraja Vishnu Temple, Ekambeshware Shiva Temple and Ekambeshwara Shiva temple. The Cardaraja temple has an ancient mango tree its four branches are said to represent the four Cedas. Each branch is said to contain fruits with different flavors. Later we drive to Mahabalipuram.
Day 20 Mahabalipuram / Chennai/ Home
This town was the prot city of the Pallava Kings ( 7thcentury AD). After breakfast we will visit the Group of five Rathas Temples, rock-cut monoliths named after the heroes of the Epic - Mahabharata. The rock carving depicting the penance of Shiva is one of the finest piece of stone carving. This would end the visit to the Shore Temple. After lunch, drive to Chennai and a visit to the Saint Thomas Cathedral (the first apostle), Fort St. George ( now the secretariat) and the High Court buildings.
You will be transferred to the International airport for your flight back home.
|